Perhaps you didn’t know, but philodendron, one of the most common house plants is actually quite an important source of food for monkeys and bats in the wild, but on the contrary, it is very poisonous to rats.
Its lengthy and robust name draws its origin from two Greek words- “love” (Philo), and “tree” (dendron), resulting in quite gentle and cute meaning when translated.
If you are curious to find out more about this intriguing plant and its numerous types and learn everything about how to grow a philodendron, you have come to the right place.
How to Grow Philodendron Indoors
To be able to grow any indoor plant properly, you need to have comprehensive knowledge about the plant itself, for the beginning.
This includes not only its structure but the entire set of habits and procedures regarding watering, proper temperature, fertilization, propagation, sunlight requirements etc.
And that’s exactly what my guide is going to give you!
There are 489 accepted species of this ornamental plant, with some sources encompassing even more.
While other members of this family have a very simple development procedure, this one has a wide range of growth methods, sometimes even combined, if the environmental conditions require so.
These habits can be epiphytic, hemiepiphytic (primary and secondary), or rarely terrestrial, and the dominating method will determine whether a plant will grow its leaves or roots first.
Having in mind its ability to adapt easily to conditions outside and ensures itself an adequate growth environment, it doesn’t come as a surprise that it’s an easy one to maintain.
On the other hand, it comes as a surprise that this adaptable and robust perennial has a relatively short life span, of 2 years only.
Growing philodendron indoors is very easy, as it can withstand even the harshest conditions, so I’d label it as an ideal choice for beginners looking for a non-complicated plant to start their indoor gardening adventure.
Besides watering, feeding, fertilization, etc. you will need to consider how large is it, and by that I mean the size of a fully-grown one.
Some specimen tend to become notably large, up to 5 meters tall, with leaves that can range up to a meter, which means they would require a more comfortable place and enough room to develop properly.
Now let’s go step by step and find out more about several most commonly seen variants of philodendron and the best methods to take care of each of them.
Different Types of Philodendrons (Plus Special Tips)
So, as I mentioned, there are really numerous different species, so writing the separate guides on each of them would require a whole book.
👉If you are completely new to gardening or just need a reminder, here is a free Indoor Plant Care for Beginners in a form of a mini course for you.👈
My article here addresses the most common requirements regarding this plant in general, but in this part, I would like to draw your attention to several particular points.
These 6 types are the most frequently seen philodendrons in homes worldwide so, let’s see what it takes to maintain them well.
Philodendron Selloum care
Also known as tree philodendron, this one is native to South America. However, it can also be seen in the US, on the east and Gulf coasts.
It’s one of the larger species, and it requires lots of space to be accommodated. Leaves are usually two to three feet, while the entire plant spreads 5 feet or even more.
As it matures, it grows a trunk, but the dropping leaves seclude it. Its dark green leaves are deeply lobed and of large size.
This one is particularly poisonous to cats, and it’s labeled as level 3 toxicity, so pay special attention.
It prefers bright, indirect light and warmer temperature-above 55°F (12.8°C), but doesn’t like drafty spaces.
What differs this one from the rest of the gang is the fact that it prefers moist, not soggy soil.
However, it does like humid spaces, so if the air is too dry you can accommodate it near the humidifier.
Flowering also occurs, but after 15 to 20 years, so be patient.
It deals with the common problems just like all the other species, and sometimes spider mites or mealy bugs and similar can cause troubles, but those can be removed with soapy water.
Philodendron Selloum thrives in rich, slightly alkaline soil and it can be propagated from a stem cutting.
Philodendron Xanadu care
Also known as Winterbourn, this beautiful plant has shiny green leaves that resemble feathers, and each of them has a multitude of lobes.
Another name for it is a cut-leaf philodendron, and what differs this one from the rest of the brothers and sisters- it’s not a climber.
It has a thick woody stem and grows in mounded shape, and it can reach a max height of 120cm.
I have to note that this plant tends to look wider, often much more than it’s tall.
It also prefers bright light, and average to warm household temperatures from 18-28°C and short periods down to 12°C. Again, mind the draught.
Similar to all others, it’s an excellent air purifier, but very poisonous, so pay attention if you have pets and small kids.
Soil needs to be half-dry before you re-water it, and two to three feedings during the active phase are more than enough, in terms of fertilizing.
Philodendron Xanadu is native to the West Indies and Tropical Rainforests of Central and South America.
Philodendron Heartleaf care
If you are looking for a plant that is almost impossible to kill, then this “sweetheart” is the one you should get.
Also known as scandens, it can be kept both as table and hanging plant- in each case, it will look amazing.
As you may assume from the name, its shiny and dark green leaves are shaped like a heart.
It can tolerate lower light, which other philodendrons can’t.
It requires thorough watering, but before you re-water it, at least 50% of the soil needs to dry out.
During fall and winter, once fertilization per month is enough, mostly when the plant is actively producing leaves. It doesn’t produce flowers.
It tolerates well higher temperatures, of up to 80ºF (27ºC) with 55º F (13ºC) at night being the minimum it can handle well on a regular basis.
The level of humidity should be moderate, and the soil you use well-aerated.
As it belongs to vining sorts, you need to prune it regularly so as to avoid leggy stems. Also, you need to pay attention to the pores, so it doesn’t clog from the dust. Wash the leaves to prevent that from happening.
You use stem cuttings to propagate it, but mind the nubs (little bumps where the leaves are connected to the stem). Each stem for propagation needs to have several of those, as that’s the place where future roots will develop.
Philodendron Heartleaf is among the NASA-listed plants for excellent air-purification powers, but very poisonous- level 2 toxicity.
Philodendron Monstera care
Don’t let its name scares you off, this one is definitely among the prettiest of them all.
There is even a sub-type, monstera variegata, whose discoloration makes it just above gorgeous!
Monstera deliciosa is, as the name may hint so, quite delicious, but only a particular part of it, not the whole plant.
The rest of it is as toxic as the entire family.
Its split, glossy and large green leaves are the plant’s trademark, so iconic that they serve as an inspiration for artists as well.
You will rarely see it flower indoors, it usually does so as an outdoor plant, and its flowers become edible fruits- there you go, the yummy part of the plant.
Philodendron Monstera likes indirect light and high humidity, a well-draining soil, and occasional misting.
Pay attention to the leaves, you must keep them dust-free, otherwise, you will end up dealing with bacteria. Use water and a cloth, and a bit of dishwashing detergent can be added as well, that’s all.
Repot it when you see that it needs a bigger container.
This one is propagated via air-layering.
Philodendron Brasil care
This heart-leaf cutie is easy to maintain, as it tolerates well all sorts of poor conditions- light, too low, poor soil, irregular watering.
It makes an excellent gift for beginners, precisely because it’s too demanding.
It thrives in moist but well-drained soil, and it is normally watered once per 5 to 7 days, depending on the amount of light or temperature. It doesn’t tolerate soggy soil.
Monthly fertilization during the active phase is recommended and also, make sure the leaves are clean. Wipe them off to remove the dust.
Prune Philadendron Brasil regularly, not only for aesthetics but to enable the plant to develop properly. The foliage should be trimmed so that the plant would be encouraged to develop the upper part and reduce the chances for a large root system to develop.
Needless to elaborate much, it’s very toxic to cats and dogs.
Philodendron Micans care
If your home is not overly large, then this lacy tree philodendron is the perfect choice. It’s leaves are huge, but they won’t grow more than 3” in width, so accommodating won’t represent a major problem.
An interesting fact is that its color depends on light. The spectrum varies from deep green to pink edges.
It’s famous for its elegant vines which fall down, but can also be directed to climb up if provided with burlap or trellis.
It prefers well-drained, loose soil and bright indirect sunlight. If you spot too many leggy stems, it’s an indicator that your plant is not getting enough light.
Make sure that the soil is dry before you re-water your plant (the top inch of soil), otherwise you may overwater it.
During the summer and spring, you should fertilize it once a month, but during the autumn and winter, you should do it once in 2 months or so.
This one is not prone to issues with insects, but pay attention to mealybugs and aphids. These can be wiped off using rubbing alcohol.
The ideal temperature for this specific plant varies between 66 – 79°F during the day, and approximately 60°F at night.
To make sure your plant is healthy, just observe the leaves. Should anything go wrong, you will find tell-tale signs there.
Philodendron Micans is usually propagated via cutting, and the easiest way is to root it in water.
Did you know that philodendrons may be grown in water? Just water, no soil.
If you have one of those, you know how easy is to monitor the amount of water.
Sometimes your plant is too thirsty, so it may drink a bit more or faster than you expected.
When you add new water to it, make sure it’s of room temperature, so as not to shock the plant.
If you have a plant that lives in the potting soil, you should water it when half of the soil is dry.
This plant likes water but doesn’t like too much moisture.
The leaves will start turning yellow or brown if you are overwatering or underwatering it,
If the leaves are wilted, then it needs more water.
As for the schedule, once every two days is enough if the outside is too hot. In case the temperature is moderate, once every three to four days will be just as good.
To make one thing clear- you cannot switch environments (soli-water and vice versa), as your plant is used to the one it already spends time in. When transferred to another medium, it may start suffering.
And one more thing- try not to pour water over your plant.
Even though the plant likes moisture, it refers to the soil, not to the leaves.
It may change color, and by pouring water over it you may infiltrate bacteria in your plant’s leaves. So, refrain from doing that, just water the soil.
To be able to grow a healthy plant, any plant, not just this specific one, you need to know which components are essential for its proper development.
In order to function well, each of three vital processes requires specific elements, altogether 16 of the,
The list includes macronutrients such as N, P, and K (all considered primary nutrients), as well as S, Mg, and Ca. These are needed in larger amounts.
The other elements encompass C, H, O, Fe, Zn, and many more.
So, the fertilizer you choose should make up for the lack of any of the elements, in case your plant is not getting enough.
As for the specific strictures, you can find them in plenty forms: there are granulated, there are those called ”slow-release”, liquid. And on top of it, they can be organic or synthetic.
You are probably wondering how can one tell whether a plant is getting enough of these crucial nutrients.
It’s easy, just observe its leaves and the entire plant. If your philodendron develops slowly, if the leaves are too small or too pale, these are the signals that it needs some boost.
As for the frequency, you can fertilize it once a month throughout summer and spring. As for fall and winter, every six to eight weeks is more than enough.
Important Tips for Proper Fertilizing
Sometimes the soil itself is very poor in nutrients, which means you have to compensate it by adding some food.
Unlike plants that grow out in the wild, houseplants are not constantly exposed to nutrients and don’t have the chance to replenish themselves like the plants in the native environment do.
As a general rule on philodendron fertilizing, a friend of mine once told me that “being conservative” is the best approach.
What she meant by that is that you should feed your plant with a modest amount of fertilizer, and avoid “drowning” it with too much fertilizer just because it looks sick or stagnant to you.
It’s not a magic potion, and if you feed it excessively, you will burn it and eventually destroy it.
Besides, when diluting it, make sure the mix you get is not too strong. You can either follow the prescribed instructions or dilute everything by half the recommended limits.
There are many fertilizers available on the market, so make sure you choose the one which is the least harmful, meaning the least stuffed with heavy chemicals.
Natural Fertilizers for Philodendron
Did you know that some plants as well are avid coffee drinkers?
No, no, I’m not kidding, trust me, some plants thrive when you fertilize them with coffee, and philodendron is one of them.
It’s an excellent and one of the most natural ways to boost its growth.
There are two ways to use coffee for this purpose. One is to mix the grounds with the soil, and the other is to make a solution (half coffee, half water) and pour that liquid into the soil. The amount is more or less the same as the one when you water it.
Green tea can be used for the same purpose, also in its liquid form, or by mixing the leaves with the soil.
Do keep in mind that even if you choose natural fertilizers, it doesn’t mean that you’ve got yourself a coffee buddy to drink with every day.
Don’t over-fertilize your plant, because even these natural options can do some harm, if not used wisely.
Perhaps philodendron doesn’t look like one of those plants screaming for pruning, still, it needs to be done. Not as frequent as some other plants, still occasional “styling” will be beneficial both for its health and appearance.
If you want me to describe how perfect pruning would look like, I’d say-unnoticeable. Yes, your action should be minimal, but meaningful.
Here’s what you need to have in mind:
1) Wait for the ideal moment
If you think that you should prune your philodendron just because you haven’t done it for a while, then don’t do it.
Observe your plant, and if you see no discolored or dead leaves and stems, if the plant looks healthy in general, then it doesn’t need pruning.
The plant’s overall look and good shape are the best signals whether something needs to be done.
And if all the signals are absent, then no action is required.
Just keep an eye on it and it will tell you when something needs to be done.
2) Know exactly what to remove
Dead and discolored elements (stems and leaves) can slow down your plant’s growth, and they are the sign that your plant has some disease.
Removing those materials will keep the disease from spreading and enable your philodendron to develop properly.
Also, if your plant is taking too much space, then pruning is an option to maintain its size to fit the area where it’s accommodated.
Do know that you should never remove more than ⅓-½ of the plant.
On the other hand, you can avoid pruning by placing your philodendron elsewhere.
Just pay attention to the environment and conditions, they need to be the same so that your plant could continue its development without interruption.
However, if some stems appear to be lengthier than the others, they most certainly need to be removed.
Known as “leggy”, these stems are a bunch of uneven stems which make your plant look sloppy.
And it’s not just a matter of poor aesthetics, these parts pull more energy from the plant, and drastically reduce the growth.
That’s why leggy stems need to be pruned as soon as spotted so that your philodendron keeps on developing right.
If you encounter old stems, they are also unnecessary, so prune them as well.
In case you have a vining type philodendron, only the tips of the vines should be removed. The purpose is to neat up the plant and promote bushier growth.
On this occasion, cut on the point on a stem where a new element grows. This place is called the leaf node.
Bonus tip for you: Pruning should be done during the active phase (spring or fall) so that your plant could restore its balance ASAP. That’s when new shoots that promote growth are produced so take advantage of this phase.
Also, make sure several weeks or months have passed before you decide to prune your philodendron again.
3) Knowing where to cut
When pruning the plant, you should remove only dead and diseased parts of it, without interfering too much with the healthy part.
So, you should cut just below the problematic area so as to preserve the healthy part.
If you need to remove the entire stem for some reason, then the cut should be made in the place where the stem meets the main plant.
Avoid cutting the main stem, as it’s a sort of connector for all other leaves and plants.
4) Use the right tools
Pruning can be done using several different tools, knife, pruning shears or scissors. Whichever you chose, the rule is the same- make sure they are sharp.
Do know that no matter which one you use, they need to be sterilized before you start pruning your plant.
That’ because the leftovers on your tool, like mud and debris, may spread the bacteria all over your plant and harm its health.
The sterilization process is quite simple- make a diluted bleach and water solution and soak scissors, knife or shears into it. Rinse them thoroughly when you finish and they are ready.
Do the same when you finish pruning.
There’s an alternative solution- wiping with rubbing alcohol.
It’s a very effective method, and slightly advantageous over the abovementioned procedure as it is less corrosive than the bleach.
If you have a fully grown and healthy plant, you can use it to establish new ones- it’s called a propagation.
So what you need to do is prune your plant for propagation, without endangering the growth of that “mother plant”.
Here’s how that process would look like:
- Search for a healthy and long stem which has leaves on it (at least 3-4)
- Cut it with sharp scissors/ sheers at the joint above another leaf of the same stem
- Your cutting must be somewhere in between 4 and 7 inches long
- All you need to do is now place the cutting into the soil and water it (you can also place it in moist vermiculite as an alternative)
- Bright sunlight is a good place to keep it. Make sure that the soil is always moist (but not wet)
- Roots are expected to appear in about two or three weeks
- If you are not completely sure whether the plant has established the roots, you can tug the cutting gently to see if you feel some resistance.
- In case the answer is positive, the roots have formed-congrats, you’ve managed it!
Propagation in Water
The other way to start a new plant is by growing it in a jar of water.
This “ancient” method has been popular for a long, long time, and it still works.
If you decide to grow philodendron in water, do know that the process is the same as with potting soil, and the only difference is that the cutting is placed in a container with water, instead of in one with potting soil or vermiculite.
To make sure there’s no confusion, let us recap the whole procedure.
- Get a clear jar (or some similar container) and pruning tool, and above all- a philodendron
- Pour tap water into the container so that at least an inch of space is left beneath the rim. The chlorine should dissipate, so you just need to let water sit for one night.
- Take a stem from the plant (around 6 inches) using your tools. Cut it underneath the set of leaves.
- You need to make at least two leaf nodes on the stem bare, and that can be done by pinching off 2 or 3 sets of leaves.
- Place the cutting in water so that the leafless part remains above the top of the container. The lower part, with bare leaf nodes, should be in the water.
- You obviously don’t need to water it, but you need to replace the water at least once in every 3 days. When doing so, leave it overnight before you replace it (for the reason I already mentioned.)
- Roots are expected to sprout in about 10 days, and it’s much easier to spot that since the water is transparent. (Unlike when you do so in soil and have to tug it.)
There are several reasons why plants need to be transplanted from time to time. Sometimes it’s the health, in other cases, it’s the lack of space.
As you can assume, so many different types of philodendron have different requirements, but I will outline some general points you should be aware of when repotting your plant.
So, what you need is a new container, potting soil and a good mood.
Here’s how a common procedure goes:
- A day before you plan to transplant your plant, water it thoroughly. This way, the soil will be much more cooperative and your plant will be less stressed out.
- Use the tools to cut back the plant to the desired length. If your plant shows signs of stunted growth, then severe pruning should be done. If not, it’s not necessary at all.
- Put approximately an inch of soil at the bottom of your new pot (or container). It should be well-drained and of adequate quality.
- Turn the philodendron on edge and slide the pot off with one hand while you use the other to cradle the surface of the soil. Be careful not to damage your plant, this step needs to be performed with due care and attention.
- Check the roots to see if they look healthy and well-colored. If you encounter mushy or brittle parts, trim them. (Just so you know, a healthy root is the one which is white and pliable.)
- If the roots are too tangled, make several vertical cuts to encourage growth. Cuts should be made from the top to the bottom.
- Shake the plant well so that you liberate it from an excessive amount of soil and accommodate it in the new container.
- Fill one half or maximally ¾ of the pot with new soil. As you know, commercial soil can be too dense sometimes, so in order to avoid compacting upon watering, make a mix using soil, perlite and peat moss- all same amounts.
- Water the plant until you see the water going out through the bottom of the container.
- Congrats, you philodendron’s officially got a new home!
When repotting, pay attention to the following:
- If your skin is too sensitive, use gardening gloves to avoid skin rash.
- When buying a container, make sure the size is adequate. If you are looking for a bigger one than the current container, opt for one which is one to two inches larger.
Perfect time for repotting
This should be observed from a wider perspective.
On common occasions, if your plant is of good health, and you just want to transplant it because you want to provide it a more comfortable container, do so in its active phase.
The plant wakes up from the winter dormancy in early spring- that’s perfect timing.
The optimum daytime temperatures usually are at 70 F. (21 C).
That way you will follow the natural cycle and your plant will be able to get over repotting simpler and continue to develop properly.
On the other hand, if your plant has some root diseases, you need to transplant is ASAP, regardless of the phase (active or passive).
The goal is to save the plant, so the more you wait, the less are the chances for it to survive.
Philodendron Problems and Solutions
Having in mind that philodendron is easy to maintain the plant, there are not many things that can go wrong with it.
But sometimes it takes just to move it slightly, pour more water into it or perhaps prune it incorrectly to harm your plant.
However, there are solutions for all situations, and I’ve made a compilation of the most common scenarios that’ll hopefully help you solve your problem.
1. Leaves on Philodendron Turning Yellow
This is one of the most commonly seen issues, and there’s not much mystery about it.
If the leaves of your philodendron are turning yellow, that’s the sign it is getting too much light.
You see, philodendron doesn’t need direct sunlight, it prefers bright, indirect.
So, if exposed to too much full light, it can even end up with sunburned patches.
On the other hand, if it is too shady and your plant isn’t getting enough sunlight, then the lower leaves may star acting the same- turn yellow, or the other scenario- leaf tips start dying.
To prevent this, the best would be to accommodate your plant on a sunny windowsill with some lighter curtains to create a balance.
Then, if you constantly overwater your plant, the scenario will be the same- leaves will turn yellow, or even fall off.
2. V-shaped yellowish areas on leaves
Your plant is suffering from magnesium deficiency, so you should add it.
The plant needs various nutrients for proper development, and if any of them is missing, it will slow down the growth.
3. Leaves turning brown
If this is the case, then your plant is telling you that it is getting too much water. So, stop doing that, and water it less.
Besides the excessive amount of water, brown also indicates that light requirements are not met.
The third reason could be bacteria diseases, and the only way to save your plant is to isolate it from others and remove the diseased parts. (Don’t forget to disinfect tools!)
Dark green to brown blotches appear between then leaf veins
Those are the sign that your plant has cold injuries, and this happens when you accommodate it in places where the temperature is below 50° F.
The minimum requirement is above 55° F, so make sure you follow this rule- and avoid placing your philodendron near the air conditioner.
4. Curly leaf tips
If you spot tips going downward, it’s a sign that you are over-fertilizing your plant. Reduce the rate and your plant will recover.
But, if there’s an excessive amount of slow-fertilizer, a better solution would be to repot your plant.
Various spots on leaves
If there are translucent stains on leaf edges that become reddish-brown with a yellow ring or you noticed large spots are tan and of irregular shape, your plant is having bacteria.
So, the best way to prevent this is to purchase a healthy plant in the first place. Then, you should avoid pouring water over it and liberate the plant from the diseased and infected leaves by cutting those parts.
5. Root rot
This is on a close connection to leaves turning yellow or brown. When the roots turn black and mushy, it’s the signal that your plant is dealing with fungus- Pythium.
Saving a plant that is nearly dying is a challenging task, but you can try.
If the percentage of the diseased part is less than the healthy ones, then your plant stands some chances.
Remove those parts, repot your plant, and observe it to see if there are any positive signs of getting better.
Another fungal disease that causes either root or stem rot is southern blight (Sclerotium rolfsii).
This one tends to spread rapidly and it can eventually cover the entire plant. There are seed-like spores of brown color and cottonlike masses near the infected parts, two most typical signs of this fungal disease.
So, the sooner you spot them the higher are the chances to save the plant.
That’s why I need to point out the importance of tool sterilization once again. Those small leftovers may seem insignificant to you, but plants are delicate, and bacteria enter much easier.
There are always some good fungicides for philodendrons and other plants, but they are harmful to people and the environment, so instead of reaching out for those- focus on prevention!
Bonus tip- How to make sure your plant is not stressed?
Yes, plants can be stressed as well, and yours is to make sure those factors are eliminated.
It’s not just the stress itself, but such a plant becomes more susceptible to diseases and infections, and that’s the scenario you want to avoid.
So, what causes a plant to feel disturbed?
If the optimal conditions regarding light, temperature, watering, fertilizations are not supplied, if any of these requirements are not met, the plant will start suffering.
The situation gets even worse during the dormant period (winter), and the temperature swings are more often.
So, the best way to prevent any disease and stress is to provide those conditions and keep them well-balanced.
And in the end, keep this in mind- as long as roots on your plants are alive, you can revive the dying plant.
So, how to raise it from the ashes?
Clean the root from the soil, and remove the infected parts, then repot your plant in a new container, using new soil, and leave in someplace with indirect sunlight.
If there are some greenish parts on the stems, chances to save it are even higher.
Never give up, throwing the plant away is the easiest solution, but by implementing your love, care, and attention all to give one last try, you prove that you are a true lover of nature.
Plants can feel that you know, and they will find a way to express their gratitude.
1. Pothos VS philodendron- the same plant or not?
This is undoubtedly the ultimate mystery, sometimes even experts can make mistakes.
These plants are very, very similar, but not the same.
They are both tropical plants and excellent air cleaners, but pothos requires more light and warmer temperatures to be able to develop properly, while philodendrons tolerate variable temperatures and lower light.
Another key difference is in their leaves- pothos often has yellow, white, or gold markings on it’s crispy leaves.
2. Do philodendrons have flowers?
Yes, they do. But check this out- you’d have to wait 15 to 16 years to witness this wondrous moment.
That’s when the plant is considered a fully grown and mature and is ready to reproduce.
This usually happens between May and July, in the middle of the night, as that’s the perfect timing for pollination.
The unusual timing is also the one when you can feel the strongest fragrance.
In nature, scarab beetles are the ones assisting in reproduction, while at home (unless you happen to have these exotic bugs), we use propagation to create more plants.
3. Is this plant poisonous?
Unfortunately, the answer is positive. And they are not just dangerous for pets (particularly dogs), but for humans as well- so those with small kids should pay special attention.
If consumed, they can cause various symptoms such as diarrhea, vomiting, swelling, burning, coughing, drooling, agitation and many more- sometimes even with the most terrible outcome.
Also, they have a trailing habit, which means the like to prostrate, so the stems may end up on places you initially haven’t had in mind.
The best is to find a safe place to accommodate it or opt for some other, non-dangerous plant.
4. What does philodendron symbolize?
This adorable plant is a symbol of abundance, health, and personal growth- so it doesn’t come as a surprise that it’s frequently seen in homes and offices.
Some artists used it as green muse, for example, Pablo Picasso.
Moreover, it is also a symbol of love of nature, so it’s basically an ultimate representation of plant fans.
(Now you have some cool hints on types of people who’d be thrilled to get philodendron as a present!)
5. What are the philodendron benefits?
One of the crucial advantages of having this plant is air purification. It’s highly effective in cleaning the air by successfully removing harmful chemicals.
The one they are particularly specialized in is formaldehyde, which is a carcinogen.
The most effective types are P.domesticum, P.bipinnatifidum, and P. cordatum- as outlined in NASA Clean Air Study.
6. Do philodendrons like to be misted?
Since they belong to plants which like humidity, they will enjoy being misted.
During the active season, you can do it every two days, while in the passive phase they don’t require as much humidity, so every three to four days should be enough.
How many philodendrons per home is allowed?
If you ask me, you can have as many of them as you want, as long as there’s enough space for you to live.
Jokes aside, there’s no thing such as too many philodendrons in the house.
But having in mind how large they are and the specific conditions they require, you can end up with several.
7. Can you put philodendron and other plants in the same room?
Again, you can accommodate as many different plants as you want, regardless of the species, as long as you can provide suitable conditions for development for each of them.
Sometimes, in order to save space and make room for more plants grow different plants in the same containers. Those are called companion plants.
In terms of watering, nutrition and light requirements, philodendron has the same demands as peace lilies, Schefflera and similar, so it can be combined in the same pot.
If you opt for this, just make sure that the container will be large enough to accept multiple plants, allowing both roots and the upper part to develop properly.
8. Fertilizing after repotting, yes or no?
You normally don’t do so, because the plant is very sensitive in that period, so it could harm the roots and burn them.
It’s okay to wait around four weeks before you do so, and when you feed your plant for the first time after repotting, make sure the dose is milder.
Can I use fertilizers for other plants on philodendrons?
Generally speaking, you can.
There is much all-purpose fertilizer that is suitable for the majority of common houseplants so in case you don have the one specialized for philodendrons, you can use it.
Keep in mind that philodendrons need nitrogen, it’s vital for the process of photosynthesis.
And now, after reading my guide, you are ready to grow any philodendron you like the most!
And oh my, do you have a lot to choose for!
If you grow or want to grow some other type of philodendron that is not listed here, feel free to write to me and I will prepare a nice little guide for you, my dears! 🙂Follow us on: